Casper, Internet. Internet, Casper.This picture was taken shortly before snow fell, and is the most recent photo I've got. I will put up some interior shots once I've got them, just to give a reference for future comparison.
For now, courage.
Saturday, December 29, 2007
Pictures
Casper, Internet. Internet, Casper.This picture was taken shortly before snow fell, and is the most recent photo I've got. I will put up some interior shots once I've got them, just to give a reference for future comparison.
For now, courage.
Maintenance
There are some simple things which I have never done in the past but will do from this point forward.
Petroleum Jelly
Applying petroleum jelly (Vaseline) to rubber components like weatherstripping, tires, etc. keeps the rubber soft. There is a 99% chance it is recommended in the owner's manual for your car. This isn't just something limited to cars, though! Any rubber item you own which is exposed to the elements can benefit from this simple practice.
Checking Fluids
There is no practical reason to skip checking your engine fluids when you fuel up your car. It takes all of 30 seconds to check your oil, and mere visual inspection for coolant/antifreeze, brake fluid, and power steering fluid. Even during the coldest days of winter this will not keep you out in the wind and snow long enough to be unpleasant.
Car Washes
It seems like vanity to hit up the wash for your car to become filthy again in such a short time. Things are worse during the winter, since sand and possibly salt end up all over your car daily. But this is precisely the reason you need to wash your car! Sand can be damaging to your cars finish and salt will cause rust. North Dakota, where we live, does not salt their roads, but we routinely drive on the Minnesota side where salt is applied liberally. It is optimal to be able to dry your car thoroughly after washing, specially in winter. For this reason, it is handy to have access to a heated garage.
Tire Pressure
My front tire pressure was off by 10psi. Ten pounds! This makes a difference in fuel economy as well as in the life of the tire. A tire gauge only costs a few bucks, and most gas stations will let you use one for free if you ask. Air is also generally free at gas stations.
Fuel Economy
Keep a log book in your car to track your fuel economy and to keep notes about car performance and maintenance. Every time you fuel up, take a minute to jot down how many gallons you put in and what your mileage looked like. It is easier to spot potential issues when you can see fluctuations in your average fuel economy over time. If you ever sell your car, you will have valuable documentation containing a record of every time fluids were changed or topped off, parts replaced, and even unresolved issues. A smart buyer would kill for this knowledge for a used car.
Petroleum Jelly
Applying petroleum jelly (Vaseline) to rubber components like weatherstripping, tires, etc. keeps the rubber soft. There is a 99% chance it is recommended in the owner's manual for your car. This isn't just something limited to cars, though! Any rubber item you own which is exposed to the elements can benefit from this simple practice.
Checking Fluids
There is no practical reason to skip checking your engine fluids when you fuel up your car. It takes all of 30 seconds to check your oil, and mere visual inspection for coolant/antifreeze, brake fluid, and power steering fluid. Even during the coldest days of winter this will not keep you out in the wind and snow long enough to be unpleasant.
Car Washes
It seems like vanity to hit up the wash for your car to become filthy again in such a short time. Things are worse during the winter, since sand and possibly salt end up all over your car daily. But this is precisely the reason you need to wash your car! Sand can be damaging to your cars finish and salt will cause rust. North Dakota, where we live, does not salt their roads, but we routinely drive on the Minnesota side where salt is applied liberally. It is optimal to be able to dry your car thoroughly after washing, specially in winter. For this reason, it is handy to have access to a heated garage.
Tire Pressure
My front tire pressure was off by 10psi. Ten pounds! This makes a difference in fuel economy as well as in the life of the tire. A tire gauge only costs a few bucks, and most gas stations will let you use one for free if you ask. Air is also generally free at gas stations.
Fuel Economy
Keep a log book in your car to track your fuel economy and to keep notes about car performance and maintenance. Every time you fuel up, take a minute to jot down how many gallons you put in and what your mileage looked like. It is easier to spot potential issues when you can see fluctuations in your average fuel economy over time. If you ever sell your car, you will have valuable documentation containing a record of every time fluids were changed or topped off, parts replaced, and even unresolved issues. A smart buyer would kill for this knowledge for a used car.
Blower Motor
Today I tackled the blower motor "repair", which turned out to be not much of a repair at all.
The blower motor - the motor responsible for blowing heated (or cooled) air into the cabin of the car - is simply an electric motor with variable speed. In Casper it is located in the housing for the heater core, which is directly behind the engine and in front of the windshield. Accessing it was simply a matter of opening the hood and removing a piece of weatherstripping and a plastic shroud.
My "repair" was no more than disconnecting an air hose and spraying lubricant onto the blower motor. I had first thought to use WD-40, but was told it would evaporate within a week and I would be back where I started. Instead, I ended up using a lubricant based on mineral spirits. Silicone-based lubricants would have also been suitable.
Following a liberal application of sprayable lubricant, I turned the heater on and added a little more during operation. After everything was put back together I moved the car out of the garage and left the heater fan on full blast for ~20 minutes for good measure.
For the time being I have heat as I should. This might last me a week, or maybe for as long as I keep the car. With any good fortune it will last until the end of winter.
The blower motor - the motor responsible for blowing heated (or cooled) air into the cabin of the car - is simply an electric motor with variable speed. In Casper it is located in the housing for the heater core, which is directly behind the engine and in front of the windshield. Accessing it was simply a matter of opening the hood and removing a piece of weatherstripping and a plastic shroud.
My "repair" was no more than disconnecting an air hose and spraying lubricant onto the blower motor. I had first thought to use WD-40, but was told it would evaporate within a week and I would be back where I started. Instead, I ended up using a lubricant based on mineral spirits. Silicone-based lubricants would have also been suitable.
Following a liberal application of sprayable lubricant, I turned the heater on and added a little more during operation. After everything was put back together I moved the car out of the garage and left the heater fan on full blast for ~20 minutes for good measure.
For the time being I have heat as I should. This might last me a week, or maybe for as long as I keep the car. With any good fortune it will last until the end of winter.
Monday, December 24, 2007
Next Up
The car is back to running smooth, but there are still some issues to be tackled. Since I've put a budget cap at ~$100/month for non-critical issues, I've got to pick and choose my battles...
Blower Motor
This is the motor which delivers hot air to the cabin. Right now it is spotty at best, which means I drive in a whole lot of cold. I am not sure what to expect for this repair. It could be quite an adventure!
Fuel Injectors
I'm told I can rebuild them "on the cheap". This is a more likely option, as they cost $50/each new. That's the best price I could find. I would need five of them. I will need to do this before I can hammer down the correct idle mixture.
Idle Mixture
While the idle is much better, it is still not where it should be. I think I may be running rich (more fuel than should be in the mix, as opposed to lean), as I'm burning fuel much faster than I should be. Before I can do this, I need to make sure there are no vacuum leaks.
Instrument Panel
A bunch of soldering needs be done to fix issues with the LED display, speedometer, indicator lights, etc.
Fuse #4 Power Drainage
The devices on fuse #4 are non-critical (mostly interior lights), but I would rather they work without draining my battery. I need to test each device on the circuit to find the short, and while I'm at it I will replace bad lights and clean the switches for smoother operation.
Headliner
Saggy, saggy, saggy. If I get this cut out then testing all of the lights should go much quicker. Evidently you can buy headliner fabric at normal fabric stores. It is just padded fabric with adhesive. You use a roller paintbrush to gently apply the new fabric to the surface it is mounted upon. I have no clue how much the fabric costs.
Heater Box Enclosure Cover
This is a thin, brittle plastic cover held down by metal clips and weather stripping. It is cracked all over pretty bad. I can't buy a replacement, so I had the clever idea of making one using a superior material. The plan is to make a plaster cast and manually tweak said cast to compensate for the missing portions. Following this, I will attempt to use silicone rubber to create a replacement part. If I am successful, I will market them on the Audi World forums for other owners. If this process pays off it could pave the way for making other replacement parts.
Those are the main projects for now! The blower motor is priority #1, for obvious reasons...
Blower Motor
This is the motor which delivers hot air to the cabin. Right now it is spotty at best, which means I drive in a whole lot of cold. I am not sure what to expect for this repair. It could be quite an adventure!
Fuel Injectors
I'm told I can rebuild them "on the cheap". This is a more likely option, as they cost $50/each new. That's the best price I could find. I would need five of them. I will need to do this before I can hammer down the correct idle mixture.
Idle Mixture
While the idle is much better, it is still not where it should be. I think I may be running rich (more fuel than should be in the mix, as opposed to lean), as I'm burning fuel much faster than I should be. Before I can do this, I need to make sure there are no vacuum leaks.
Instrument Panel
A bunch of soldering needs be done to fix issues with the LED display, speedometer, indicator lights, etc.
Fuse #4 Power Drainage
The devices on fuse #4 are non-critical (mostly interior lights), but I would rather they work without draining my battery. I need to test each device on the circuit to find the short, and while I'm at it I will replace bad lights and clean the switches for smoother operation.
Headliner
Saggy, saggy, saggy. If I get this cut out then testing all of the lights should go much quicker. Evidently you can buy headliner fabric at normal fabric stores. It is just padded fabric with adhesive. You use a roller paintbrush to gently apply the new fabric to the surface it is mounted upon. I have no clue how much the fabric costs.
Heater Box Enclosure Cover
This is a thin, brittle plastic cover held down by metal clips and weather stripping. It is cracked all over pretty bad. I can't buy a replacement, so I had the clever idea of making one using a superior material. The plan is to make a plaster cast and manually tweak said cast to compensate for the missing portions. Following this, I will attempt to use silicone rubber to create a replacement part. If I am successful, I will market them on the Audi World forums for other owners. If this process pays off it could pave the way for making other replacement parts.
Those are the main projects for now! The blower motor is priority #1, for obvious reasons...
Merry Christmas to Me!
To show appreciation for some assistance I had offered, two of my friends bought a new starter for Casper. I set aside some time to install it yesterday, and the whole process went rather smooth. There is really not much to write about it except this:
If I had lacked a nice jack and jack stands, I wouldn't have been able to do this. My friend Gary had recently purchased a new creeper (that thingy with wheels which mechanics lay on), which also made a world of difference.
Lesson: While there are some parts which are less expensive online, local auto parts stores still have competitive pricing and many places will price match (or even beat by 5%+) other local stores. The new starter cost $70 less locally than the best online price I could find.
- Disconnect the battery
- Jack the front end waaaaay up
- Lower the car onto jack stands
- Remove old starter (two large bolts + electrical wiring)
- Install new starter
- Reconnect the battery
- Test
- Remove jack stands
- Drive away
If I had lacked a nice jack and jack stands, I wouldn't have been able to do this. My friend Gary had recently purchased a new creeper (that thingy with wheels which mechanics lay on), which also made a world of difference.
Lesson: While there are some parts which are less expensive online, local auto parts stores still have competitive pricing and many places will price match (or even beat by 5%+) other local stores. The new starter cost $70 less locally than the best online price I could find.
Monday, December 17, 2007
Dead Battery Update #1
It turns out my battery was shot, too. It tested as only able to put out ~220CCA (cold cranking amps, meaning cranking amps below 30F) but should have been able to put out >700CCA.
Thankfully, the battery was still under warranty and the shop I'd picked it up from handed a new one across the counter with no questions asked. Nice.
Lesson: Warranties are a Good Thing (TM).
Thankfully, the battery was still under warranty and the shop I'd picked it up from handed a new one across the counter with no questions asked. Nice.
Lesson: Warranties are a Good Thing (TM).
ISV Revisited
It turns out my idle stabilizer valve (ISV) is shot.
Since I was having such wonderful idling issues I posted to the audiworld.com forums hoping someone would have some ideas. I had some ideas of my own, but it is always best to have a full hat of tricks when entering the garage.
Some kind soul suggested I remove my ISV and blow in one end to see if the gasket was good (no leakage) or bad (some to much leakage). Mine came in on the bad side. The very bad side.
I ordered a new ISV on Thursday, received it on Friday, and was able to install it today (Sunday). Oh. My. Goodness. What a difference! The idle is stable, but the car still idled quite high. So, back to the bag of tricks.
In my perusal of the repair manual I found information regarding a special procedure for changing the CO (carbon monoxide) mixture. It appears some of the CO running through the turbo ends up back in air headed for combustion-land. The procedure calls for removal of a semi-permanent aluminum plug near the fuel distributor, and mine had most obviously been removed. That's right: somebody messed up my CO mixture.
It took some trial and error, as well as proper adjustment to the idle via the throttle body, but I presently have the car starting decent and idling smoothly at ~1100RPM. This is still not where I would like things to be, but it is much better.
The car should be able to start without pumping the accelerator, and should idle at ~750RPM. I'm almost there!
Since I was having such wonderful idling issues I posted to the audiworld.com forums hoping someone would have some ideas. I had some ideas of my own, but it is always best to have a full hat of tricks when entering the garage.
Some kind soul suggested I remove my ISV and blow in one end to see if the gasket was good (no leakage) or bad (some to much leakage). Mine came in on the bad side. The very bad side.
I ordered a new ISV on Thursday, received it on Friday, and was able to install it today (Sunday). Oh. My. Goodness. What a difference! The idle is stable, but the car still idled quite high. So, back to the bag of tricks.
In my perusal of the repair manual I found information regarding a special procedure for changing the CO (carbon monoxide) mixture. It appears some of the CO running through the turbo ends up back in air headed for combustion-land. The procedure calls for removal of a semi-permanent aluminum plug near the fuel distributor, and mine had most obviously been removed. That's right: somebody messed up my CO mixture.
It took some trial and error, as well as proper adjustment to the idle via the throttle body, but I presently have the car starting decent and idling smoothly at ~1100RPM. This is still not where I would like things to be, but it is much better.
The car should be able to start without pumping the accelerator, and should idle at ~750RPM. I'm almost there!
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Injuries and Filthiness
It is inevitable to be injured or to end up filthy when working on cars. Today I've added three injuries to my collection, and these are by far the best yet:
1) a minor cut on my right pinkie finger due to an open-handed punch to a bolt on the caliper when a wrench slipped loose
2) a blood blister on the tip of my left middle finger due to being pinched somewhere
3) a big scrape down my left leg from one of the wheels falling on me
On the topic of filthiness:
1) my just-cleaned-today jacket and hat have mud from the wheel well caked on them
2) my fingernails will have crud caked beneath them for at least a week
3) my shoes and socks have water, brake fluid, lubricant, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, etc. all over them
Lessons learned:
1) you can dismantle things much more quickly if you think about pain after it happens instead of before (thanks, Gary)
2) mind where your fingers are
3) wear pants, not shants
A funny thing happened while working on the brakes which I had failed to note earlier. My friend Gary was helping me remove the caliper housing and the Allen wrench he was prying at/with popped loose and flew out of his hand. We both heard a singular ping and couldn't find the wrench for a good 20 minutes. Without this wrench we could neither finish taking the brakes apart nor put them back together.
Just shy of giving up, I pulled his creeper out and started looking for places it may have bounced to in the under body. I have no idea how I spotted it, but it only took me about five seconds. Gary figures I've either got amazing eye-sight or amazing luck. It had bounced to the top of the left rear CV boot, and was actually wedged into place. It was barely visible from the side of the car, and I had spotted it from the rear.
There was much laughter and rejoicing.
P.S. - I actually know what "CV" means, but I still have no idea why it bears that name.
1) a minor cut on my right pinkie finger due to an open-handed punch to a bolt on the caliper when a wrench slipped loose
2) a blood blister on the tip of my left middle finger due to being pinched somewhere
3) a big scrape down my left leg from one of the wheels falling on me
On the topic of filthiness:
1) my just-cleaned-today jacket and hat have mud from the wheel well caked on them
2) my fingernails will have crud caked beneath them for at least a week
3) my shoes and socks have water, brake fluid, lubricant, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, etc. all over them
Lessons learned:
1) you can dismantle things much more quickly if you think about pain after it happens instead of before (thanks, Gary)
2) mind where your fingers are
3) wear pants, not shants
A funny thing happened while working on the brakes which I had failed to note earlier. My friend Gary was helping me remove the caliper housing and the Allen wrench he was prying at/with popped loose and flew out of his hand. We both heard a singular ping and couldn't find the wrench for a good 20 minutes. Without this wrench we could neither finish taking the brakes apart nor put them back together.
Just shy of giving up, I pulled his creeper out and started looking for places it may have bounced to in the under body. I have no idea how I spotted it, but it only took me about five seconds. Gary figures I've either got amazing eye-sight or amazing luck. It had bounced to the top of the left rear CV boot, and was actually wedged into place. It was barely visible from the side of the car, and I had spotted it from the rear.
There was much laughter and rejoicing.
P.S. - I actually know what "CV" means, but I still have no idea why it bears that name.
Brakes
I had been worried about my brakes. A visual inspection confirmed the pads on the rear right-hand side were completely shot, and were taking the rotor with them. I hadn't bothered to check the left-hand side, since my mind was made up for me at that point.
I fired off an order for pads and rotors rather quickly, but ran into a small snag: starting with the 1989 model year, all Audis and Volkswagens require a special tool for retracting the rear disc break piston. My tool arrived in the mail today.
The rear pads and rotors took several hours to take care of, mainly because I take my time to clean all the parts and visit with friends. Some bolts were rather stubborn, and I had to make a trip in order to locate an 8mm Allen wrench.
With the help of a friend I bled the brakes. The right-rear brake had tons of air in the lines. That will do it... It looked like someone had worked on the left-rear brake - even changed the bleeding 'nipple' - but never touched the right-hand side.
The whole procedure cost ~$200 including tools. I had ordered a $50 brake bleeding kit, but it wasn't necessary to use as a friend was available to assist. I might return it, bringing my total cost to ~$150. You'll never believe what I had been quoted by a mechanic: $300 in pads/rotors alone. Who knows what the labor would have looked like?
On the Audi World forums, people keep referring to specific brake hydraulic part as the "bomb". Evidently it is one of the more common problem parts these cars have. I have no clue what they are referring to, but their test procedure & symptoms lead me to believe my "bomb" may need replacing. Despite the name, it does not appear to be a high priority item.
P.S. - My wife and I just brought another vehicle into the family: a 2002 Volkswagen New Beetle GLS TDI (turbo charged diesel). I never would have thought I'd be the one saying this about a New Beetle, but it is a beauty and I love driving it. I'm calling it the Blue Meanie.
I fired off an order for pads and rotors rather quickly, but ran into a small snag: starting with the 1989 model year, all Audis and Volkswagens require a special tool for retracting the rear disc break piston. My tool arrived in the mail today.
The rear pads and rotors took several hours to take care of, mainly because I take my time to clean all the parts and visit with friends. Some bolts were rather stubborn, and I had to make a trip in order to locate an 8mm Allen wrench.
With the help of a friend I bled the brakes. The right-rear brake had tons of air in the lines. That will do it... It looked like someone had worked on the left-rear brake - even changed the bleeding 'nipple' - but never touched the right-hand side.
The whole procedure cost ~$200 including tools. I had ordered a $50 brake bleeding kit, but it wasn't necessary to use as a friend was available to assist. I might return it, bringing my total cost to ~$150. You'll never believe what I had been quoted by a mechanic: $300 in pads/rotors alone. Who knows what the labor would have looked like?
On the Audi World forums, people keep referring to specific brake hydraulic part as the "bomb". Evidently it is one of the more common problem parts these cars have. I have no clue what they are referring to, but their test procedure & symptoms lead me to believe my "bomb" may need replacing. Despite the name, it does not appear to be a high priority item.
P.S. - My wife and I just brought another vehicle into the family: a 2002 Volkswagen New Beetle GLS TDI (turbo charged diesel). I never would have thought I'd be the one saying this about a New Beetle, but it is a beauty and I love driving it. I'm calling it the Blue Meanie.
Tuesday, December 4, 2007
Dead Battery
While I had the car in the garage, I spent some time pulling fuses to determine what might be draining the battery. I did a quick check on the electrical draw. Something was consistently drawing 9V! No wonder the battery died...
Finding the problem is a simple process, really. You disconnect the negative battery terminal, put a test light between the cable and the battery, then start pulling fuses until the light shuts off. In the worst case, the light won't shut for any of the fuses and you're stuck with a potentially bad alternator, starter, radiator fan, etc.
In my case fuse #4 did the trick. In my car, this fuse is responsible for the circuit the interior lights, vanity mirror lights, trunk light, cigar lighter, trip computer, clock, radio, and some other small non-critical components are on. Since this leaves me with a specific set of items to put the multimeter to I am happy. Until I have the opportunity to do this, I will leave the fuse out.
The battery is recharged and I was able to start the car for the first time in several days without a jump from a friend. Hooray!
Finding the problem is a simple process, really. You disconnect the negative battery terminal, put a test light between the cable and the battery, then start pulling fuses until the light shuts off. In the worst case, the light won't shut for any of the fuses and you're stuck with a potentially bad alternator, starter, radiator fan, etc.
In my case fuse #4 did the trick. In my car, this fuse is responsible for the circuit the interior lights, vanity mirror lights, trunk light, cigar lighter, trip computer, clock, radio, and some other small non-critical components are on. Since this leaves me with a specific set of items to put the multimeter to I am happy. Until I have the opportunity to do this, I will leave the fuse out.
The battery is recharged and I was able to start the car for the first time in several days without a jump from a friend. Hooray!
Radiator Update #4
I feel like a complete idiot!
I spotted a bit of coolant pooling beneath the car Sunday and panicked. It would be another days until I could get my car back in a heated garage. I assumed the worst and had a second new radiator cross-shipped via 2nd Day, which will arrive on Tuesday.
Then I began having doubts. I just wasn't sure if I had clamped down a certain hard-to-reach hose. I recalled leaving it loose before I installed the radiator because I wanted to ensure it was adjusted to the correct angle to accommodate the reservoir. I just didn't recall tightening the hose clamp.
After getting the car back in a garage, it was the very first thing I checked. Sure enough, the clamp was swinging free like a man gone commando. It took a while to get at it, but I was able to tighten it down without having to drain any coolant or disconnect anything.
Lesson learned: Double check EVERYTHING. Then check again.
No drippage anymore. Now I've got to get this 2nd new radiator sent back...
I spotted a bit of coolant pooling beneath the car Sunday and panicked. It would be another days until I could get my car back in a heated garage. I assumed the worst and had a second new radiator cross-shipped via 2nd Day, which will arrive on Tuesday.
Then I began having doubts. I just wasn't sure if I had clamped down a certain hard-to-reach hose. I recalled leaving it loose before I installed the radiator because I wanted to ensure it was adjusted to the correct angle to accommodate the reservoir. I just didn't recall tightening the hose clamp.
After getting the car back in a garage, it was the very first thing I checked. Sure enough, the clamp was swinging free like a man gone commando. It took a while to get at it, but I was able to tighten it down without having to drain any coolant or disconnect anything.
Lesson learned: Double check EVERYTHING. Then check again.
No drippage anymore. Now I've got to get this 2nd new radiator sent back...
Sunday, December 2, 2007
Next Up
The car is running and gets us from Point A to Point B quite well. However, there are several issues which I will need to tackle immediately.
Casper is idling right around 3000RPM, which is terrible-bad. The car should idle ~750RPM. It is possible we have a bad sensor somewhere, or also possible there is a vacuum leak. I hope it is the former, as it is simpler for me to troubleshoot! It seems less likely there is a vacuum leak as the car will sometimes idle near ~1800RPM. Even if I can get the car to 1800RPM consistently, that is still way too high.
Something is slowly draining the battery. This is simple to troubleshoot: put a 12V bulb in-line from the battery terminal to the battery cable and start pulling fuses until the light turns off. That will at least narrow the problem down to a smaller electrical subsystem.
The rear disc brakes are 99% gone. I already have the replacement parts, but I am not able to install them due to lack of proper tools. A "special tool" is needed to force the brake piston to its resting position, and I have not yet brainstormed a suitable alternative. Also, the housing for the brake pads - which also holds the rotor in place - seems to require a very large hex tool for removal. The outside of the bolt is a perfectly smooth, round surface. How lame is that? For the brakes alone I need five distinctly different tools! Shame on you, Audi!
I'm going to replace the V-belts on the recommendation of a friend. He says they look cracked, and could break at any time. I already have the belts, I just need the time to replace them.
Casper is idling right around 3000RPM, which is terrible-bad. The car should idle ~750RPM. It is possible we have a bad sensor somewhere, or also possible there is a vacuum leak. I hope it is the former, as it is simpler for me to troubleshoot! It seems less likely there is a vacuum leak as the car will sometimes idle near ~1800RPM. Even if I can get the car to 1800RPM consistently, that is still way too high.
Something is slowly draining the battery. This is simple to troubleshoot: put a 12V bulb in-line from the battery terminal to the battery cable and start pulling fuses until the light turns off. That will at least narrow the problem down to a smaller electrical subsystem.
The rear disc brakes are 99% gone. I already have the replacement parts, but I am not able to install them due to lack of proper tools. A "special tool" is needed to force the brake piston to its resting position, and I have not yet brainstormed a suitable alternative. Also, the housing for the brake pads - which also holds the rotor in place - seems to require a very large hex tool for removal. The outside of the bolt is a perfectly smooth, round surface. How lame is that? For the brakes alone I need five distinctly different tools! Shame on you, Audi!
I'm going to replace the V-belts on the recommendation of a friend. He says they look cracked, and could break at any time. I already have the belts, I just need the time to replace them.
Radiator Update #3
Success!
I took things 'easy' today as I put everything back together. I intended to take the time to clean parts, clean up coolant in the engine compartment, remove crud from bolts & nuts, etc. As a result, I needed several hours to complete the work. In retrospect, I could have completed in ~1 hour if I had been working at a more manly pace.
Following the installation, we (Dusty & Gary, the brothers who own the heated garage where I have been able to work) took a spin to verify correct operation. The coolant temperature was very consistent, so I'm a happy man!
The big lesson learned today was "Carb cleaner, carb cleaner, carb cleaner." Evidently it can be used to clean just about anything under the sun!
There were some (mis)adventures, as well:
1) Despite the part being correct, I had to re-drill some mounting holes on the radiator.
2) The radiator fan housing was slightly warped (not affecting operation), and had to be man-handled into place on the radiator.
3) Goodbye radiator intake shroud! I had no clue as to how this chunk of plastic was to be reinstalled. It already looked fairly mangled, and I doubt it was doing what it was intended to. Perhaps it is more useful in warmer climates?
4) We had to take a rubber mallet to the thermostat housing. That thing was stuck.
5) After destroying the thermostat in order to remove it (it was also very much stuck), we determined it wouldn't have needed to be replaced. Oh well, I'd already bought a new one.
Once again, I apologize for the lack of pictures. Although I do intend to include pictures in the near future, I've come to realize taking pictures while working on cars is no simple feat. I would literally have to clean my hands every time I desired to take a picture. My hands are still filthy despite having been washed with a very harsh cleaning agent, and my fingernails make me look like I've been digging through dirt all day.
I took things 'easy' today as I put everything back together. I intended to take the time to clean parts, clean up coolant in the engine compartment, remove crud from bolts & nuts, etc. As a result, I needed several hours to complete the work. In retrospect, I could have completed in ~1 hour if I had been working at a more manly pace.
Following the installation, we (Dusty & Gary, the brothers who own the heated garage where I have been able to work) took a spin to verify correct operation. The coolant temperature was very consistent, so I'm a happy man!
The big lesson learned today was "Carb cleaner, carb cleaner, carb cleaner." Evidently it can be used to clean just about anything under the sun!
There were some (mis)adventures, as well:
1) Despite the part being correct, I had to re-drill some mounting holes on the radiator.
2) The radiator fan housing was slightly warped (not affecting operation), and had to be man-handled into place on the radiator.
3) Goodbye radiator intake shroud! I had no clue as to how this chunk of plastic was to be reinstalled. It already looked fairly mangled, and I doubt it was doing what it was intended to. Perhaps it is more useful in warmer climates?
4) We had to take a rubber mallet to the thermostat housing. That thing was stuck.
5) After destroying the thermostat in order to remove it (it was also very much stuck), we determined it wouldn't have needed to be replaced. Oh well, I'd already bought a new one.
Once again, I apologize for the lack of pictures. Although I do intend to include pictures in the near future, I've come to realize taking pictures while working on cars is no simple feat. I would literally have to clean my hands every time I desired to take a picture. My hands are still filthy despite having been washed with a very harsh cleaning agent, and my fingernails make me look like I've been digging through dirt all day.
Friday, November 30, 2007
Radiator Update #2
Lesson #1: The timeliness of part delivery is more important than the cost of the parts.
I placed my order for parts a week and a half ago. Thus far, half of the parts have arrived. It is a rather frustrating situation to be in, as I have no car to drive. Life would be much worse if I needed to travel more than several blocks, if the temperature was much lower, or if it was windy outside.
I have been able to get around by bike so far, but not for much longer. The first snow has come, and the temperature has dropped below 0F.
Update: All of the parts were delivered by the 29th of November. That puts the latest-arriving part nine days after the order date. I should have some grace here, as UPS likely shut down or slowed their operation over Thanksgiving weekend. Still, I will never again make the mistake of ordering parts with anything other than Next Day or 2nd Day delivery.
I placed my order for parts a week and a half ago. Thus far, half of the parts have arrived. It is a rather frustrating situation to be in, as I have no car to drive. Life would be much worse if I needed to travel more than several blocks, if the temperature was much lower, or if it was windy outside.
I have been able to get around by bike so far, but not for much longer. The first snow has come, and the temperature has dropped below 0F.
Update: All of the parts were delivered by the 29th of November. That puts the latest-arriving part nine days after the order date. I should have some grace here, as UPS likely shut down or slowed their operation over Thanksgiving weekend. Still, I will never again make the mistake of ordering parts with anything other than Next Day or 2nd Day delivery.
Monday, November 19, 2007
Radiator Update #1
A friend and I drove out to where my wife had left the car. It started up without any trouble, which means that spraying coolant had likely created a short which caused the starter to fail when she had first experienced the problem.
My line of thinking was this: if I could get the car closer to Grand Forks than Fargo, my insurance company would pay for towing to Grand Forks. I put in a bit more coolant and watched it drain out. With some rough (and rather uneducated) calculations, I determined I should be able to make it at least 10 miles/10 minutes before needing to shut the car off to cool down. That would be about how far I made it.
I let the car rest for a good solid 30 minutes. When I tried to fire it back up, Casper just clicked at me. If I couldn't get the car back to Grand Forks, I couldn't very well perform the repairs... I would have to pass this one up.
I gave in and called the insurance company regardless. It was 7PM on a Sunday evening. The rep I spoke with did some searching and tried to patch me through to several 'local' wreckers to no avail. After wasting nearly 30 minutes on the phone, he decided to give me the number of a 24-hour wrecker in Grand Forks.
Fast-forward to today: the bill came in at $218.50. The insurance company is evaluating it to determine what portion they will reimburse. The wreckers were kind enough to charge the battery, and I was able to drive my car from their lot to a friends' where I could perform the repairs in a heated & well-lit garage.
It appears to just be the radiator. I've already got it removed, along with the radiator fan, all of the coolant hoses, etc. While things are out, I've got extra elbow-room to test sensors and other hard-to-reach items.
I compiled a list of parts to order, and here's what I've got:
My line of thinking was this: if I could get the car closer to Grand Forks than Fargo, my insurance company would pay for towing to Grand Forks. I put in a bit more coolant and watched it drain out. With some rough (and rather uneducated) calculations, I determined I should be able to make it at least 10 miles/10 minutes before needing to shut the car off to cool down. That would be about how far I made it.
I let the car rest for a good solid 30 minutes. When I tried to fire it back up, Casper just clicked at me. If I couldn't get the car back to Grand Forks, I couldn't very well perform the repairs... I would have to pass this one up.
I gave in and called the insurance company regardless. It was 7PM on a Sunday evening. The rep I spoke with did some searching and tried to patch me through to several 'local' wreckers to no avail. After wasting nearly 30 minutes on the phone, he decided to give me the number of a 24-hour wrecker in Grand Forks.
Fast-forward to today: the bill came in at $218.50. The insurance company is evaluating it to determine what portion they will reimburse. The wreckers were kind enough to charge the battery, and I was able to drive my car from their lot to a friends' where I could perform the repairs in a heated & well-lit garage.
It appears to just be the radiator. I've already got it removed, along with the radiator fan, all of the coolant hoses, etc. While things are out, I've got extra elbow-room to test sensors and other hard-to-reach items.
I compiled a list of parts to order, and here's what I've got:
- Radiator
- Upper Coolant Hose
- Lower Coolant Hose
- Thermostat and Thermostat Gasket
- A/C & Power Steering V-Belt
- Alternator V-Belt
All said, the order cost me $243 shipped.
I will also be taking the time to clean the coolant reservoir. Once everything is put back together, I'll see about cleaning out the engine compartment with a pressure-washer. I've read this is safe to do, so long as you run the engine while you do it and be sure to stay away from places which cause the engine to sputter.
More to come. I apologize for the lack of pictures, and hope to get some taken and uploaded soon.
Sunday, November 18, 2007
Radiator
My wife called me yesterday to let me know the car started spewing "smoke" (steam), and when she popped the bonnet there was coolant everywhere.
Damn.
She got a ride home from a friend, but our car is still ~50 miles away from here. I'm about to head out with a friend of mine to assess the damage. My wife described the radiator as having a crack down the side/seam. A new radiator will cost ~$150 shipped, and I might even be able to get that price for overnight/2nd day.
The cleanup will be a pain. There was evidently enough coolant in the engine compartment to short something, so the battery is allegedly dead, as well. Wish me luck!
P.S. - Soon I will be posting a list of my "starting tools" and modify that list every time I'm able/forced to to add something to my toolkit.
Damn.
She got a ride home from a friend, but our car is still ~50 miles away from here. I'm about to head out with a friend of mine to assess the damage. My wife described the radiator as having a crack down the side/seam. A new radiator will cost ~$150 shipped, and I might even be able to get that price for overnight/2nd day.
The cleanup will be a pain. There was evidently enough coolant in the engine compartment to short something, so the battery is allegedly dead, as well. Wish me luck!
P.S. - Soon I will be posting a list of my "starting tools" and modify that list every time I'm able/forced to to add something to my toolkit.
Thursday, November 15, 2007
ISV
For a short while after replacing the intercooler hose everything was peachy. Then our idle became erratic. It would surge to ~2000RPM then drop to ~1000RPM, and sometimes it would oscillate within that range.
From my reading, it became clear the idle stabilizer valve (ISV) was the likely culprit. Thankfully, this was another simple repair.
The ISV is located on the back side of the intake manifold, and is connected to two hoses and an electrical socket. This valve can become dirty over time and will gum up. The repair process was to remove the valve and to clean it out with throttle-body cleaner. Many people make it a point to stress the use of throttle-body cleaner as opposed to carb cleaner, as carb cleaner lacks lubrication. The idea is that if you were to use carb cleaner, this valve could potentially seize up over time. May as well do it right the first time.
Both hoses connected to the ISV are held on by hose clamps, which can be removed with a flat-head screwdriver. Once the hose clamps are loosened, it may take a considerable amount of pulling and twisting to disconnect the hoses from the ISV. The electrical connector has a metal clip that must be depressed while you pull to remove it.
With the ISV removed, simply hose it with throttle-body cleaner until crud stops coming out. You want the cleaner to be coming out clear. It may help to prop the ISV up someplace and let it soak for a while. I left mine sitting for ~20 minutes to soak after the cleaner had begun to come out clear, then sprayed some more in for good measure. Putting things back together should be a straightforward.
A can of throttle-body cleaner is cheap. I can be certain I would have been charged at least $40 for a mechanic to solve my problem, and quite a bit more if they felt it necessary to replace the part. The throttle-body cleaner cost me ~$5, and the whole procedure took no more than half an hour.
Casper now idles steadily at 1000RPM.
From my reading, it became clear the idle stabilizer valve (ISV) was the likely culprit. Thankfully, this was another simple repair.
The ISV is located on the back side of the intake manifold, and is connected to two hoses and an electrical socket. This valve can become dirty over time and will gum up. The repair process was to remove the valve and to clean it out with throttle-body cleaner. Many people make it a point to stress the use of throttle-body cleaner as opposed to carb cleaner, as carb cleaner lacks lubrication. The idea is that if you were to use carb cleaner, this valve could potentially seize up over time. May as well do it right the first time.
Both hoses connected to the ISV are held on by hose clamps, which can be removed with a flat-head screwdriver. Once the hose clamps are loosened, it may take a considerable amount of pulling and twisting to disconnect the hoses from the ISV. The electrical connector has a metal clip that must be depressed while you pull to remove it.
With the ISV removed, simply hose it with throttle-body cleaner until crud stops coming out. You want the cleaner to be coming out clear. It may help to prop the ISV up someplace and let it soak for a while. I left mine sitting for ~20 minutes to soak after the cleaner had begun to come out clear, then sprayed some more in for good measure. Putting things back together should be a straightforward.
A can of throttle-body cleaner is cheap. I can be certain I would have been charged at least $40 for a mechanic to solve my problem, and quite a bit more if they felt it necessary to replace the part. The throttle-body cleaner cost me ~$5, and the whole procedure took no more than half an hour.
Casper now idles steadily at 1000RPM.
Intercooler Hose
So it begins. Discounting the replacement of the driver-side window regulator, this is my first repair. There is no better way to begin than with something this simple.
The intercooler hose is prone to cracking. Well, all hoses are prone to cracking, as I have come to understand. In my case, it cracked along the bottom so a visual inspection was useless.
I had brought the car into the repair shop I always brought it to due to idling issues and was told I could either replace the hose for ~$100 plus labor or they'd simple "patch it up" as a short-term fix for free. The guy in charge explained to me his concern over diminishing returns for the car and yada yada, so I went with the patch job.
Initially things worked well-er than normal. After a few days the "patch job" started to become a "spotty patch job", as the car would howl when I stepped on the gas. At this time, a friend began to call the car "Casper". It's a good name. It stuck.
However, the howling bothered me to no end, and I figured it must not be good for air from the engine compartment to be drawn straight into the intake manifold (of which, until recently, I did not know the name). All I had to work with was my mechanic referring to the part as an "intercooler hose," and that would have to be enough.
Some short Googling later, I found the part I needed for a whopping $33 shipped. Knowing what the part looked like made locating it under the bonnet much simpler. The great news: the part sits at the very front of the engine compartment.
It is helpful to know what role this part plays. It sits between the intercooler and the intake manifold for the turbocharger. The short story: the intercooler cools air coming from the exhaust as it heads to the turbocharger's turbine. With a cracked intercooler hose, air from the engine compartment is being drawn in instead of the air from the intercooler. It is also possible the air from the intercooler is exiting into the engine compartment, which would also not be desirable.
There are two hose clamps which hold the intercooler hose in place, and both can be easily loosened with a flat-head screwdriver. After they are loosened, the old hose can be removed by tugging or twisting from side to side. Upon removal, attaching the new hose should be a no-brainer. Once the new hose is firmly in place, tighten the hose clamps down to the same tightness as before.
Not so difficult, eh? This got me thinking: I saved $70 plus whatever I would have been charged for labor to perform a repair which ultimately took ~10 minutes of my time. I trust the mechanics who have been working on my car, but perhaps I should be taking a more active role in repair? It certainly wouldn't hurt to learn how engines work, or how the electronics works as well.
Now I am here. I have made a promise to myself: this vehicle will not go back to a mechanic unless it needs to be fully lifted off the ground, fitted with parts too heavy for me to lift, or repaired with tools which I simply cannot afford. In sticking to this promise I know I will learn new things which will be very useful down the road. Join me, if you desire.
The intercooler hose is prone to cracking. Well, all hoses are prone to cracking, as I have come to understand. In my case, it cracked along the bottom so a visual inspection was useless.
I had brought the car into the repair shop I always brought it to due to idling issues and was told I could either replace the hose for ~$100 plus labor or they'd simple "patch it up" as a short-term fix for free. The guy in charge explained to me his concern over diminishing returns for the car and yada yada, so I went with the patch job.
Initially things worked well-er than normal. After a few days the "patch job" started to become a "spotty patch job", as the car would howl when I stepped on the gas. At this time, a friend began to call the car "Casper". It's a good name. It stuck.
However, the howling bothered me to no end, and I figured it must not be good for air from the engine compartment to be drawn straight into the intake manifold (of which, until recently, I did not know the name). All I had to work with was my mechanic referring to the part as an "intercooler hose," and that would have to be enough.
Some short Googling later, I found the part I needed for a whopping $33 shipped. Knowing what the part looked like made locating it under the bonnet much simpler. The great news: the part sits at the very front of the engine compartment.
It is helpful to know what role this part plays. It sits between the intercooler and the intake manifold for the turbocharger. The short story: the intercooler cools air coming from the exhaust as it heads to the turbocharger's turbine. With a cracked intercooler hose, air from the engine compartment is being drawn in instead of the air from the intercooler. It is also possible the air from the intercooler is exiting into the engine compartment, which would also not be desirable.
There are two hose clamps which hold the intercooler hose in place, and both can be easily loosened with a flat-head screwdriver. After they are loosened, the old hose can be removed by tugging or twisting from side to side. Upon removal, attaching the new hose should be a no-brainer. Once the new hose is firmly in place, tighten the hose clamps down to the same tightness as before.
Not so difficult, eh? This got me thinking: I saved $70 plus whatever I would have been charged for labor to perform a repair which ultimately took ~10 minutes of my time. I trust the mechanics who have been working on my car, but perhaps I should be taking a more active role in repair? It certainly wouldn't hurt to learn how engines work, or how the electronics works as well.
Now I am here. I have made a promise to myself: this vehicle will not go back to a mechanic unless it needs to be fully lifted off the ground, fitted with parts too heavy for me to lift, or repaired with tools which I simply cannot afford. In sticking to this promise I know I will learn new things which will be very useful down the road. Join me, if you desire.
Casper the Friendly Car
My wife and I drive a 1989 Audi 200TQ, which has been dubbed (by one person, at least) "Casper" due to the ghostly howl which used to emit from the engine compartment (more about this later).
For a car that is now of the legal age to purchase cigarettes, it has its fair share of problems: electrical quirkiness, oil leaks, air hoses corroding, interior deterioration - the normal bullet-list of complaints common to most vehicles of the same age.
This blog is intended to be a detailed account of my venture into auto repair. Hold onto your butts, as this could get very interesting. I should warn you now that I know next to nothing about engines or automobiles, and my understanding of the electronic systems contained in most cars isn't much better.
However, I do have the Internet on my side. In my case, there are resources like http://www.audiworld.com/ and http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/, as well as a plethora of sites dedicated to selling the parts I need at low cost.
I have already made some small repairs, which I intend to document on this site as a reference for others. I will do my best to include images - with labeling where appropriate - and possibly videos.
Above all, this is intended to serve as a record of my foray into the territory of the mechanic. It is a frightening place for most, but it is not an unwelcoming one. Please join me on this exciting adventure!
For a car that is now of the legal age to purchase cigarettes, it has its fair share of problems: electrical quirkiness, oil leaks, air hoses corroding, interior deterioration - the normal bullet-list of complaints common to most vehicles of the same age.
This blog is intended to be a detailed account of my venture into auto repair. Hold onto your butts, as this could get very interesting. I should warn you now that I know next to nothing about engines or automobiles, and my understanding of the electronic systems contained in most cars isn't much better.
However, I do have the Internet on my side. In my case, there are resources like http://www.audiworld.com/ and http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/, as well as a plethora of sites dedicated to selling the parts I need at low cost.
I have already made some small repairs, which I intend to document on this site as a reference for others. I will do my best to include images - with labeling where appropriate - and possibly videos.
Above all, this is intended to serve as a record of my foray into the territory of the mechanic. It is a frightening place for most, but it is not an unwelcoming one. Please join me on this exciting adventure!
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