[redacted]
This post was spiteful and mean and good for nothing (but trouble).
A less obnoxious edit follows:
The car was pumped full of straight #2 diesel due to a misunderstanding about the forecast. As a result, the fuel nearly gelled. We tried to make the best of it and spent the evening driving around town looking at houses, but after three hours we had still only used 1/4 tank of fuel.
I should have topped off with straight #1. Instead I guessed standard pre-blended diesel would suffice. I was wrong.
Today the car will not start, as the fuel is totally gelled. We don't have much for options. Basically, Linnea has no way to go to work tomorrow and I will need to find a ride to class. Lesson learned!
Saturday, February 9, 2008
Wednesday, January 30, 2008
In Need of Heat
In the last two days we have seen the temperature fall nearly 50 degrees (Fahrenheit) here in North Dakota. With wind chill, we're looking at "feels like -50F" outside. It is not a pretty situation.
People start to notice things about their cars in this kind of weather, namely things like a failure to start. Batteries are so cold they simply cannot provide the power the starter requires. Oil is too cold to be an effective lubricant. Antifreeze may potentially be frozen.
This is why we use block heaters: coolant heaters, freeze plug heaters, oil pan heaters, etc. The main goal is to raise the temperature of the engine to something civilized prior to turning the key.
Now, I cannot stress this next point enough: if you live in similar conditions and lack some kind of preheating mechanism (preferably a coolant heater), you are murdering your car. Unless you park in a heated garage, that is.
I am a bad owner, as neither of my cars have a block heater. The temperature drops and I can't drive anywhere... But no more! I have ordered an in-line coolant heater for both cars, and will have everything installed in a few days. Never again will I contend with cranking the engine more than a second or two, and never again will I have to allow the car to "warm up" before I drive away.
In other news, the fuel gelled in the Beetle today... Gary brought over his 10,000BTU propane heater and we were able to fire it up after warming for about an hour. Never again will I be forgetful of the blend ratio of our diesel!
People start to notice things about their cars in this kind of weather, namely things like a failure to start. Batteries are so cold they simply cannot provide the power the starter requires. Oil is too cold to be an effective lubricant. Antifreeze may potentially be frozen.
This is why we use block heaters: coolant heaters, freeze plug heaters, oil pan heaters, etc. The main goal is to raise the temperature of the engine to something civilized prior to turning the key.
Now, I cannot stress this next point enough: if you live in similar conditions and lack some kind of preheating mechanism (preferably a coolant heater), you are murdering your car. Unless you park in a heated garage, that is.
I am a bad owner, as neither of my cars have a block heater. The temperature drops and I can't drive anywhere... But no more! I have ordered an in-line coolant heater for both cars, and will have everything installed in a few days. Never again will I contend with cranking the engine more than a second or two, and never again will I have to allow the car to "warm up" before I drive away.
In other news, the fuel gelled in the Beetle today... Gary brought over his 10,000BTU propane heater and we were able to fire it up after warming for about an hour. Never again will I be forgetful of the blend ratio of our diesel!
Wednesday, January 16, 2008
Oil Change Time!
This month I changed my own oil for the first time. It was worth doing for the knowledge alone, but I will likely never do it again. Likely, I will bring it to cheap oil change place and watch them like a hawk while they do it for me.
Some quick points:
It was a huge pain in every imaginable body place.
The Audi doesn't have an easily accessible air filter. Truthfully, the Audi doesn't have an easily accessible air box. I had to remove the metal piping going to my intercooler (cools exhaust headed for the turbocharger), an electrical wiring harness, and a headlight just to get to it. Even then, it took some careful maneuvering to remove and replace the air filter. I'm told I should be doing at least this once a year. I'm also told it's much simpler in most cars. However, since it's a royal pain in mine I will likely rely upon the quick lube places to sort it out. I'll just need to watch them very closely to make sure they actually change it.
I could have ended my punishment there, but no! I am a glutton. I decided it was the perfect opportunity to change my fuel filter, as well. I believe I'm having fuel delivery problems which have been worsened by the cold weather, and had reason enough to believe there may have been moisture in the fuel filter. Surprisingly, the auto parts store had the filter I needed in stock.
I couldn't find an official procedure in my repair manual for replacing the fuel filter, so I had to wing it. My friend Dusty noted there must be some way to depressurize the fuel lines, which I guessed would be pulling the fuel pump relay in the fuse box and turning the key. Close enough, I think. Following this, I disconnected the battery.
The fuel filter was tightened down strong. It is basically a large cylinder with one fuel line coming in one side and another fuel line going out the other side. While loosening the fuel filter, fuel began to leak into the engine compartment. Oops. I guess I didn't *really* depressurize the system. Better luck next time! The fuel filter itself was full of fuel, and needed to be drained. Dusty's garage is vented, so we ran the fan to clear out the vapors and odor. Replacing the fuel filter was simply the same process in reverse. Well, switch around starting the car and installing the fuel pump relay in the fuse box. And reconnect the battery last. All in all a very simple process.
That wrapped up my work on Casper for the night. I learned a few things:
Some quick points:
- Change it hot, change it often
- If there is no clearance to get under your car then you will have a very difficult time
- Keep an eye out for any leakage after any change
- After the engine has had time to warm, shut off the car.
- Allow the oil to cool to a manageable temperature, maybe 2-5 minutes.
- Remove the oil filler cap for quicker drainage.
- Remove the petcock on the oil pan and drain the old oil into an oil collector.
- After the dripping stops, replace the petcock.
- Remove the oil filter and allow it to drain into the oil collector.
- Clean the oil filter socket (carburetor cleaner is fine).
- Rub new oil on the gasket of the new oil filter, as well as in the socket (creates a seal).
- Install the new oil filter and tighten by hand.
- Start pouring your new oil.
- Run the car for several minutes, watching for leaks. Specifically, watch the petcock and oil filter.
- Bring your old oil someplace which handles oil recycling (it's free).
It was a huge pain in every imaginable body place.
The Audi doesn't have an easily accessible air filter. Truthfully, the Audi doesn't have an easily accessible air box. I had to remove the metal piping going to my intercooler (cools exhaust headed for the turbocharger), an electrical wiring harness, and a headlight just to get to it. Even then, it took some careful maneuvering to remove and replace the air filter. I'm told I should be doing at least this once a year. I'm also told it's much simpler in most cars. However, since it's a royal pain in mine I will likely rely upon the quick lube places to sort it out. I'll just need to watch them very closely to make sure they actually change it.
I could have ended my punishment there, but no! I am a glutton. I decided it was the perfect opportunity to change my fuel filter, as well. I believe I'm having fuel delivery problems which have been worsened by the cold weather, and had reason enough to believe there may have been moisture in the fuel filter. Surprisingly, the auto parts store had the filter I needed in stock.
I couldn't find an official procedure in my repair manual for replacing the fuel filter, so I had to wing it. My friend Dusty noted there must be some way to depressurize the fuel lines, which I guessed would be pulling the fuel pump relay in the fuse box and turning the key. Close enough, I think. Following this, I disconnected the battery.
The fuel filter was tightened down strong. It is basically a large cylinder with one fuel line coming in one side and another fuel line going out the other side. While loosening the fuel filter, fuel began to leak into the engine compartment. Oops. I guess I didn't *really* depressurize the system. Better luck next time! The fuel filter itself was full of fuel, and needed to be drained. Dusty's garage is vented, so we ran the fan to clear out the vapors and odor. Replacing the fuel filter was simply the same process in reverse. Well, switch around starting the car and installing the fuel pump relay in the fuse box. And reconnect the battery last. All in all a very simple process.
That wrapped up my work on Casper for the night. I learned a few things:
- It is very likely to be cheaper, and will very likely be faster to have your oil and fuel filter changed by a service... Just watch them closely and complain if they don't fully drain your oil. For serious.
- If you do change your own oil, get your car up off the ground. You can likely reach everything while it is not, but life is so much simpler when it's jacked up.
- Hot oil is hot, and I don't mean sexy. Unless that's what you're into.
- An oil change every 3000 miles is a decent choice, but my repair manual calls for one every 7000... and states explicitly to use synthetic. Be familiar with what your manual says, not what the oil change place says.
- If you're noticing your oil looks dull and black, change it more frequently. It gets this way as the filter is not able to remove small pieces of metal and other pieces of waste that end up in the system. For this reason, I appreciate that some oil change places will actually show you what your old oil looked like without being asked. So maybe your manual says 7000, too, but changing at 3000 still yields filthy black oil. Change it sooner!
Saturday, December 29, 2007
Pictures
Casper, Internet. Internet, Casper.This picture was taken shortly before snow fell, and is the most recent photo I've got. I will put up some interior shots once I've got them, just to give a reference for future comparison.
For now, courage.
Maintenance
There are some simple things which I have never done in the past but will do from this point forward.
Petroleum Jelly
Applying petroleum jelly (Vaseline) to rubber components like weatherstripping, tires, etc. keeps the rubber soft. There is a 99% chance it is recommended in the owner's manual for your car. This isn't just something limited to cars, though! Any rubber item you own which is exposed to the elements can benefit from this simple practice.
Checking Fluids
There is no practical reason to skip checking your engine fluids when you fuel up your car. It takes all of 30 seconds to check your oil, and mere visual inspection for coolant/antifreeze, brake fluid, and power steering fluid. Even during the coldest days of winter this will not keep you out in the wind and snow long enough to be unpleasant.
Car Washes
It seems like vanity to hit up the wash for your car to become filthy again in such a short time. Things are worse during the winter, since sand and possibly salt end up all over your car daily. But this is precisely the reason you need to wash your car! Sand can be damaging to your cars finish and salt will cause rust. North Dakota, where we live, does not salt their roads, but we routinely drive on the Minnesota side where salt is applied liberally. It is optimal to be able to dry your car thoroughly after washing, specially in winter. For this reason, it is handy to have access to a heated garage.
Tire Pressure
My front tire pressure was off by 10psi. Ten pounds! This makes a difference in fuel economy as well as in the life of the tire. A tire gauge only costs a few bucks, and most gas stations will let you use one for free if you ask. Air is also generally free at gas stations.
Fuel Economy
Keep a log book in your car to track your fuel economy and to keep notes about car performance and maintenance. Every time you fuel up, take a minute to jot down how many gallons you put in and what your mileage looked like. It is easier to spot potential issues when you can see fluctuations in your average fuel economy over time. If you ever sell your car, you will have valuable documentation containing a record of every time fluids were changed or topped off, parts replaced, and even unresolved issues. A smart buyer would kill for this knowledge for a used car.
Petroleum Jelly
Applying petroleum jelly (Vaseline) to rubber components like weatherstripping, tires, etc. keeps the rubber soft. There is a 99% chance it is recommended in the owner's manual for your car. This isn't just something limited to cars, though! Any rubber item you own which is exposed to the elements can benefit from this simple practice.
Checking Fluids
There is no practical reason to skip checking your engine fluids when you fuel up your car. It takes all of 30 seconds to check your oil, and mere visual inspection for coolant/antifreeze, brake fluid, and power steering fluid. Even during the coldest days of winter this will not keep you out in the wind and snow long enough to be unpleasant.
Car Washes
It seems like vanity to hit up the wash for your car to become filthy again in such a short time. Things are worse during the winter, since sand and possibly salt end up all over your car daily. But this is precisely the reason you need to wash your car! Sand can be damaging to your cars finish and salt will cause rust. North Dakota, where we live, does not salt their roads, but we routinely drive on the Minnesota side where salt is applied liberally. It is optimal to be able to dry your car thoroughly after washing, specially in winter. For this reason, it is handy to have access to a heated garage.
Tire Pressure
My front tire pressure was off by 10psi. Ten pounds! This makes a difference in fuel economy as well as in the life of the tire. A tire gauge only costs a few bucks, and most gas stations will let you use one for free if you ask. Air is also generally free at gas stations.
Fuel Economy
Keep a log book in your car to track your fuel economy and to keep notes about car performance and maintenance. Every time you fuel up, take a minute to jot down how many gallons you put in and what your mileage looked like. It is easier to spot potential issues when you can see fluctuations in your average fuel economy over time. If you ever sell your car, you will have valuable documentation containing a record of every time fluids were changed or topped off, parts replaced, and even unresolved issues. A smart buyer would kill for this knowledge for a used car.
Blower Motor
Today I tackled the blower motor "repair", which turned out to be not much of a repair at all.
The blower motor - the motor responsible for blowing heated (or cooled) air into the cabin of the car - is simply an electric motor with variable speed. In Casper it is located in the housing for the heater core, which is directly behind the engine and in front of the windshield. Accessing it was simply a matter of opening the hood and removing a piece of weatherstripping and a plastic shroud.
My "repair" was no more than disconnecting an air hose and spraying lubricant onto the blower motor. I had first thought to use WD-40, but was told it would evaporate within a week and I would be back where I started. Instead, I ended up using a lubricant based on mineral spirits. Silicone-based lubricants would have also been suitable.
Following a liberal application of sprayable lubricant, I turned the heater on and added a little more during operation. After everything was put back together I moved the car out of the garage and left the heater fan on full blast for ~20 minutes for good measure.
For the time being I have heat as I should. This might last me a week, or maybe for as long as I keep the car. With any good fortune it will last until the end of winter.
The blower motor - the motor responsible for blowing heated (or cooled) air into the cabin of the car - is simply an electric motor with variable speed. In Casper it is located in the housing for the heater core, which is directly behind the engine and in front of the windshield. Accessing it was simply a matter of opening the hood and removing a piece of weatherstripping and a plastic shroud.
My "repair" was no more than disconnecting an air hose and spraying lubricant onto the blower motor. I had first thought to use WD-40, but was told it would evaporate within a week and I would be back where I started. Instead, I ended up using a lubricant based on mineral spirits. Silicone-based lubricants would have also been suitable.
Following a liberal application of sprayable lubricant, I turned the heater on and added a little more during operation. After everything was put back together I moved the car out of the garage and left the heater fan on full blast for ~20 minutes for good measure.
For the time being I have heat as I should. This might last me a week, or maybe for as long as I keep the car. With any good fortune it will last until the end of winter.
Monday, December 24, 2007
Next Up
The car is back to running smooth, but there are still some issues to be tackled. Since I've put a budget cap at ~$100/month for non-critical issues, I've got to pick and choose my battles...
Blower Motor
This is the motor which delivers hot air to the cabin. Right now it is spotty at best, which means I drive in a whole lot of cold. I am not sure what to expect for this repair. It could be quite an adventure!
Fuel Injectors
I'm told I can rebuild them "on the cheap". This is a more likely option, as they cost $50/each new. That's the best price I could find. I would need five of them. I will need to do this before I can hammer down the correct idle mixture.
Idle Mixture
While the idle is much better, it is still not where it should be. I think I may be running rich (more fuel than should be in the mix, as opposed to lean), as I'm burning fuel much faster than I should be. Before I can do this, I need to make sure there are no vacuum leaks.
Instrument Panel
A bunch of soldering needs be done to fix issues with the LED display, speedometer, indicator lights, etc.
Fuse #4 Power Drainage
The devices on fuse #4 are non-critical (mostly interior lights), but I would rather they work without draining my battery. I need to test each device on the circuit to find the short, and while I'm at it I will replace bad lights and clean the switches for smoother operation.
Headliner
Saggy, saggy, saggy. If I get this cut out then testing all of the lights should go much quicker. Evidently you can buy headliner fabric at normal fabric stores. It is just padded fabric with adhesive. You use a roller paintbrush to gently apply the new fabric to the surface it is mounted upon. I have no clue how much the fabric costs.
Heater Box Enclosure Cover
This is a thin, brittle plastic cover held down by metal clips and weather stripping. It is cracked all over pretty bad. I can't buy a replacement, so I had the clever idea of making one using a superior material. The plan is to make a plaster cast and manually tweak said cast to compensate for the missing portions. Following this, I will attempt to use silicone rubber to create a replacement part. If I am successful, I will market them on the Audi World forums for other owners. If this process pays off it could pave the way for making other replacement parts.
Those are the main projects for now! The blower motor is priority #1, for obvious reasons...
Blower Motor
This is the motor which delivers hot air to the cabin. Right now it is spotty at best, which means I drive in a whole lot of cold. I am not sure what to expect for this repair. It could be quite an adventure!
Fuel Injectors
I'm told I can rebuild them "on the cheap". This is a more likely option, as they cost $50/each new. That's the best price I could find. I would need five of them. I will need to do this before I can hammer down the correct idle mixture.
Idle Mixture
While the idle is much better, it is still not where it should be. I think I may be running rich (more fuel than should be in the mix, as opposed to lean), as I'm burning fuel much faster than I should be. Before I can do this, I need to make sure there are no vacuum leaks.
Instrument Panel
A bunch of soldering needs be done to fix issues with the LED display, speedometer, indicator lights, etc.
Fuse #4 Power Drainage
The devices on fuse #4 are non-critical (mostly interior lights), but I would rather they work without draining my battery. I need to test each device on the circuit to find the short, and while I'm at it I will replace bad lights and clean the switches for smoother operation.
Headliner
Saggy, saggy, saggy. If I get this cut out then testing all of the lights should go much quicker. Evidently you can buy headliner fabric at normal fabric stores. It is just padded fabric with adhesive. You use a roller paintbrush to gently apply the new fabric to the surface it is mounted upon. I have no clue how much the fabric costs.
Heater Box Enclosure Cover
This is a thin, brittle plastic cover held down by metal clips and weather stripping. It is cracked all over pretty bad. I can't buy a replacement, so I had the clever idea of making one using a superior material. The plan is to make a plaster cast and manually tweak said cast to compensate for the missing portions. Following this, I will attempt to use silicone rubber to create a replacement part. If I am successful, I will market them on the Audi World forums for other owners. If this process pays off it could pave the way for making other replacement parts.
Those are the main projects for now! The blower motor is priority #1, for obvious reasons...
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